Owner's book · not a shop
Know the car. Then the window. Factory specs in plain English — don't authorize until you can say this at the counter.
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How-to · Brakes · Pads, rotors, bleed
Watch so you can ask — not always DIY
Pads are the sacrificial blocks. Rotors are the discs they squeeze. When pads hit the wear tab you hear a squeal. When they are gone you hear grinding — that is metal cutting the rotor. A complete job is pads, hardware, greased pins, and rotors measured against the discard thickness stamped on the hat.
Safety
Steps · beginner-friendly
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Parts
ChrisFix
How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors (COMPLETE Guide)
The complete pad-and-rotor job: pins, grease, Loctite, torque, and the mandatory pedal-pump at the end.
Watch on YouTubeIf you are not DIY · say this instead
Measure inner and outer pad thickness in millimeters on both sides of that axle, and rotor thickness vs the discard spec. I will not authorize rotors without a number.
Ask at the shop
Ask for millimeters, not “they’re due.” If rotors are above discard, machining or reuse can be valid.
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Brakes
Bleed after a pad job if the pedal is soft
You do not always flush after pads — but if you opened a line, or the pedal is soft, you bleed. Soft pedal after pads is usually a piston that was not seated or air. Do not drive it “to see if it firms up.”
Brakes
Check and adjust the parking brake
The parking brake is a cable (or an electric motor) that locks the rear brakes so the car does not roll. If the handle climbs to the sky or the car rolls on a driveway, the cable is slack or the little shoes inside a rear disc hat are worn. Adjustment is model-specific. If you have an electronic EPB, do not yank the cable — you need a scan-tool retract.
Brakes
Bleed brakes by yourself with a $5 bottle
A second person pumping the pedal is the classic bleed. If you are alone, a bottle of fluid and a clear hose that stays submerged keeps air from getting sucked back in. Still: never let the reservoir go empty.
Parts · brake-pads · rotors