Owner's book · not a shop
Open HoodKnow the car. Then the window. Factory specs in plain English — don't authorize until you can say this at the counter.
Owner's book · not a shop
Open HoodKnow the car. Then the window. Factory specs in plain English — don't authorize until you can say this at the counter.
Guides
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How-to · Battery · Jump, test, alternator
DIY-safe driveway job
A dead battery is usually lights left on or an old battery — not a dead engine. Cable order matters so you do not spark on the battery. Last clamp goes to bare metal on the dead car, not the dead negative post.
Safety
Steps · beginner-friendly
Tools
Parts
No parts to buy first.
ChrisFix
How to Properly Jump Start a Car
ChrisFix is obsessive about the last ground clamp — that is the step most owners get wrong.
Watch on YouTubeIf you are not DIY · say this instead
It needed a jump. Please load-test the battery and check charging voltage at 2,000 RPM before quoting an alternator.
Ask at the shop
Ask for resting volts, cranking volts, and running volts. Those three numbers separate battery from alternator.
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Battery
Replace a 12-volt battery
Negative cable off first, then positive, then the hold-down. The new battery must match group size and CCA, not just “it fits in the tray.” Positive on first, negative last. Many radios will want a code. Recycle the old one — the core is worth money.
Battery
Test the 12-volt battery with a $20 meter
A healthy rested battery reads about 12.6 volts. While cranking it should not crash below about 10 volts. That $20 multimeter is the difference between buying a battery and buying an alternator you did not need.
Battery
Test the alternator before you buy one
The alternator is the engine-driven charger. Engine running, you should see roughly 13.8–14.7 volts at the battery. If headlights dim and voltage sits at 12.2 while running, the alternator (or a cable) is the suspect — after you proved the battery.
EV
EV 12-volt battery: the little one that bricks the car
The big pack moves the car. The little 12-volt battery wakes the computers, locks, and contactors. When it dies, a “full” EV will not unlock or charge. You jump the 12V posts in the manual — never the orange cables. Replacement is a normal battery job in a weird location.
Parts · battery