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How-to · Battery · Jump, test, alternator
DIY-safe driveway job
A healthy rested battery reads about 12.6 volts. While cranking it should not crash below about 10 volts. That $20 multimeter is the difference between buying a battery and buying an alternator you did not need.
Safety
Steps · beginner-friendly
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ChrisFix
How to Test a Car Battery with a Multimeter
Six minutes: resting voltage and a cranking load with a cheap meter.
Watch on YouTubeIf you are not DIY · say this instead
Please print a battery load test and the charging voltage. I do not want an alternator unless the running voltage is out of range.
Ask at the shop
Ask for the CCA result and the voltage printout. “It's bad” is not a test.
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Battery
Replace a 12-volt battery
Negative cable off first, then positive, then the hold-down. The new battery must match group size and CCA, not just “it fits in the tray.” Positive on first, negative last. Many radios will want a code. Recycle the old one — the core is worth money.
Battery
Test the alternator before you buy one
The alternator is the engine-driven charger. Engine running, you should see roughly 13.8–14.7 volts at the battery. If headlights dim and voltage sits at 12.2 while running, the alternator (or a cable) is the suspect — after you proved the battery.
Battery
Jump-start a dead 12-volt battery
A dead battery is usually lights left on or an old battery — not a dead engine. Cable order matters so you do not spark on the battery. Last clamp goes to bare metal on the dead car, not the dead negative post.
EV
EV 12-volt battery: the little one that bricks the car
The big pack moves the car. The little 12-volt battery wakes the computers, locks, and contactors. When it dies, a “full” EV will not unlock or charge. You jump the 12V posts in the manual — never the orange cables. Replacement is a normal battery job in a weird location.
Parts · battery